uw-photographer Dr. Wolfgang Seifarth

Wolfgang Seifarth

Born

Education

Fields

Research

Further
interests

Diving

Training

March 4th, 1960 in Schweinfurt, Germany

Study of biology, PhD

Molecular genetics, human cancer research,
recombinant DNA technology, medical diagnostics

Retroelements and Endogenous Retroviruses

Marine biology (field research, taxonomy),
Nudibranchs, Marine flatworms
UW photography
Computers and multimedia

since February 1992

VDST/CMAS***
PADI AOWD

For those of you interested in the photographic background information of the images, the following may be of interest! All slug and flatworm images, which are derived from the author, have been taken with the underwater camera gear described below.

NikonosV Macro
Nikon NikonosV with
standard lens 35mm f/2.5,
Sea&Sea extension tube
with frame viewfinder (1:2) The NikonosV standard lens 35mm f/2.5 can be used for both underwater and abovewater photography. The closest distance to the object without using any macro device is 80 cm. In general, the shooting distance has to be estimated which works well if the photographer has experience and lots of practice with the camera system. Best results are achieved when pictures are shot with an aperture between f/11 and f/22. Increasing the depth of field partially compensates unsharpness due to inaccurate rating of the distance between lens and object.
For close-up pictures (magnification ratio 1:3, 1:2 und 1:1) I am using several Sea&Sea extension tubes including frame viewfinders. These are great for taking pictures of all sessile invertebrates and slow moving animals as slugs and flatworms. However, it is not worth trying to shoot close-ups of fishes with these devices. Except at night most fishes don't stay in the frame!

Strobe Sea&Sea
Yellow Sub 50 TTL My favorite strobe is a Sea&Sea YS 50 TTL which brings excellent results in the close-up range (TTL and f/11-22). Due to its compact dimensions (length 15 cm, diameter 9 cm) it is very handy and therefore, it can be used for point-shooting also at night dives. It is powered by 4 accumulator cells (type AA, 1.2 volts each) which provide enough energy to expose 3 film rolls (36 exposures each, full power). The only missing feature to make it a perfect close-up strobe is the missing of a build-in pilot lamp. This would be very comfortable especially for taking pictures in dark caves or at night. For this purpose I use two small handlamps fixed to the strobe by a flexible strap. At the first glance this construct doesn't look very professional but it works well and displays some advantages over a build-in lamp. Both lamps can be used independently and their cones of light can be regulated to meet the needs of illumination for each object to be photographed. Thus, light sensitive invertebrates as sea pens orbasket stars can be photographed before they flee avoiding the light.

Kodak Elite 100
Kodak Ektachrome 64 My film preference for regular underwater exposures is Kodak Elite 100. This film has a good sensitivity and results in slides with - at least for my taste - a great interpretation of blue colors. For close-up pictures (magnification ratio 1:2 to 2:1) I generally use Kodak Ektachrome 64 which combines medium sensitivity with very fine resolution and terrific colors.

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Photos by
Dr. Wolfgang Seifarth:
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Nikon NikonosV with standard lens 35mm f/2.5, Sea&Sea extension tube with frame viewfinder (1:2)	The NikonosV standard lens 35mm f/2.5 can be used for both underwater and abovewater photography. The closest distance to the object without using any macro device is 80 cm. In general, the shooting distance has to be estimated which works well if the photographer has experience and lots of practice with the camera system. Best results are achieved when pictures are shot with an aperture between f/11 and f/22. Increasing the depth of field partially compensates unsharpness due to inaccurate rating of the distance between lens and object. For close-up pictures (magnification ratio 1:3, 1:2 und 1:1) I am using several Sea&Sea extension tubes including frame viewfinders. These are great for taking pictures of all sessile invertebrates and slow moving animals as slugs and flatworms. However, it is not worth trying to shoot close-ups of fishes with these devices. Except at night most fishes don't stay in the frame!
Strobe Sea&Sea Yellow Sub 50 TTL	My favorite strobe is a Sea&Sea YS 50 TTL which brings excellent results in the close-up range (TTL and f/11-22). Due to its compact dimensions (length 15 cm, diameter 9 cm) it is very handy and therefore, it can be used for point-shooting also at night dives. It is powered by 4 accumulator cells (type AA, 1.2 volts each) which provide enough energy to expose 3 film rolls (36 exposures each, full power). The only missing feature to make it a perfect close-up strobe is the missing of a build-in pilot lamp. This would be very comfortable especially for taking pictures in dark caves or at night. For this purpose I use two small handlamps fixed to the strobe by a flexible strap. At the first glance this construct doesn't look very professional but it works well and displays some advantages over a build-in lamp. Both lamps can be used independently and their cones of light can be regulated to meet the needs of illumination for each object to be photographed. Thus, light sensitive invertebrates as sea pens orbasket stars can be photographed before they flee avoiding the light.
Kodak Elite 100 Kodak Ektachrome 64	My film preference for regular underwater exposures is Kodak Elite 100. This film has a good sensitivity and results in slides with - at least for my taste - a great interpretation of blue colors. For close-up pictures (magnification ratio 1:2 to 2:1) I generally use Kodak Ektachrome 64 which combines medium sensitivity with very fine resolution and terrific colors.